A perfectly normal tyre, inflated with 32 pounds per square inch (psi) can lose 1 psi each month because of natural tyre permeability …Read More »
Here are some tips we've put together for you to help you if you're new to tyre purchasing
Question : How to choose your new tyres.
Answer : Before you decide on a new tyre, ask yourself these questions:
When you answer these questions, you narrow the choices to ones that fit your specific needs and wants.
Look in your automobile owner’s manual. You’ll find the size fitted on the car originally. Unless you’ve changed wheels, that’s the recommended size. The tyre size is written on the tyre’s sidewall.
Example – Tire sizing as it appears on the sidewall:
215/65R15 89H
215 — Width of tire in millimeters
65 — Ratio of height to width (aspect ratio)
R — Radial
15 — Diameter of wheel in inches
89H —Load index & Speed Symbol
Width of the tire in millimeters: The higher the number the wider the tyre. Aspect Ratio: The height of the sidewall section compared to the width of the tyre.
Example – If this number was a 50, then the tyre section is half as tall as it is wide.
Short sidewalls deliver crisp handling. Tall sidewalls give a smoother ride. For a specific tyre width, the smaller this number, the shorter the sidewall.
“R” indicates radial construction. Unless you specify the other option, bias (which would have a “D” (diagonal) or “B” (belted bias) in this position instead of an “R”), you are purchasing a radial tyre.
This indicates the distance across the “doughnut hole” of a yire in simple terms. You must match wheel diameter and the tyre opening. A tyre with a 15 size designation will not work on a 14” wheel, and vice versa. Improperly matching of wheel and tire size can cause serious injury or death during installation.
Includes the load index (a number) and a speed symbol (a letter). About load index, remember: keep the number the same as or greater than the original tyres’ load index. That number stands for a specific weight carrying capability. Key is that the higher the number, the greater load carrying capacity. So keep the number the same or higher, because your tyres are matched to the weight of your car. Never choose a tyre with a lower load carrying capacity than the original equipment tyre size.
Now the speed symbol Each letter corresponds to a speed rating on an indoor test wheel:
We recommend that the replacement tyres match the speed symbol of the original tyres since these match the speed capability of the vehicle.
The Uniform Tyre Quality Grading (UTQG) is a system developed to help consumers compare tyres in the areas of treadwear traction and temperature. Example – A tyre with a UTQG of 300 AB: The 300 is treadwear, which represents the tyre’s comparative wear when measured against the government-mandated tyre which is rated at 100. So this tyre wore three times longer than the control tyre.
Because of variations in operation conditions, the treadwear grade cannot be used to predict actual wearout mileage. It can be used to predict the relative wear rate of tyres with different UTQG wear rates.
Traction and temperature are graded A (superior), B (good), or C (average). Traction indicates the level of grip the tyre possesses. Temperature rating deals with the tyre’s ability to disperse built-up heat. Heat causes rubber to deteriorate over time, so dispersing heat increases tyre life.
Each tyre manufacturer determines UTQG rating for their products. Realise that UTQG’s are more accurate when comparing tyres within the same line versus tyres from two different makers.
It is important to have the proper air pressure in your tyres, as under inflation is the leading cause of tyre failure. The right amount is specified by your vehicle manufacturer and is also listed in your owner’s manual.
Alignment Misalignment of wheels in the front or rear can cause uneven and rapid treadwear. Have your alignment checked periodically.
Sometimes irregular wear can be corrected by rotating your tyres. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual or your tyre dealer for the appropriate rotation pattern for your vehicle.
Tires must be replaced when the tread is worn down to 1.5mm (min WOF level) in order to prevent skidding and hydroplaning.
Question : Tyre Safety Check - Whats involved?
Answer : Here are 6 simple safety checks and safe driving tips to save money on tyres
When was the last time you measured the tread on your tyres? There are legal requirements for the amount of tread on the tyre. Why? More tread equals better grip of the road, which equals safer driving for you. Tyres that are worn are not safe for you or for other drivers. Bald or worn tyres lead to lack of control when steering or braking.
If there are cuts or gouges in the tyre walls consider replacements. It is possible to repair small punctures in the tyre walls but it depends on the size and location of the damage. Often it’s best to replace the tyre. Would you want to risk a sudden failure at high speed?
Check the pressure when the tyres are cold. The pressure inside your tyres changes as you drive. Although air inside the tyre expands as it heats up, low pressure may be more risky than slightly higher pressure. It exposes tyres to greater wear and they will need replacing sooner. Soft tyres use more fuel, hurting your pocket. At the same time avoid over-inflating.
Have you noticed how many holes there are in the roads you normally travel? Tyres take all the impact when you hit one of those holes. There is a danger of sudden loss of air in the tyre leading to possible loss of control and maybe an accident. The same applies if a wheel hits the curb. Watch for holes in the road and take care when parking. You will save money in the long run.
Does the steering wheel vibrate when you drive? This may mean your wheels need to be balanced. Balancing is essential when you buy a new tyre. This may be included in your purchase price or a separate charge, but don’t overlook it. Unbalanced wheels impair steering, and increase wear on your vehicle’s suspension system.
Excessive or incorrect loading could be more than your tyres can bear. Too much weight can cause the tyre to come off the rim when cornering, putting you and your passengers at risk. Don't put passenger car tyres on trucks either, they are not made to take the weight, so it’s a false economy, as you will have to buy another set almost immediately.
Ask your preferred tyre dealer to inspect your tyres at least twice a year. Likely there’ll be no charge for this service, but it doesn’t hurt to ask first.
Question : Tyre Rotation - Why is it important?
Answer : Rotation can increase your tyre life Tires subject to regular rotation can last up to 20% longer rotation Rotate your tyres for longer life. The life I'm talking about is YOURS, not your tyre's.
Even though tyre dealers will frequently offer free rotation for their customers, this is a benefit which is far under used. I know that the dealer is offering this free benefit because they hope to get extra business from the problems which generally become obvious if tyres are inspected regularly.
I think that most people avoid this free service because they don't like the surprise of being told that they need to pay for some service that they didn't know they needed and they mistakenly believe that what they loose in shorter tyre life is made up by lower repair costs on their car.
This may be true, but because tyres are the only things which allow you to safely control your vehicle, I consider the risk of having a dangerous tyre defect remaining undetected as too high a price to pay for saving a few dollars on maintenance.
In the end, this is something you'll have to decide for yourself, but be informed so that you at least know what risks you are taking if you choose to ignore the recommendations of experts.
The purpose of regular tyre rotation is to produce a more even wear for all tyres on a vehicle.
Before rotating your tires, check your vehicle owner's manual for rotation recommendations. If no rotation period is specified, tires should be rotated approximately every 10,000 kms, or sooner -- especially if signs of irregular or uneven tyre wear are evident. Have the vehicle checked by a qualified technician to determine the cause of the wear problem. The first tyre rotation is the most important.
Sometimes irregular tyre wear can be corrected by tyre rotation. Consult your car owner's manual, the tyre manufacturer or your tyre dealer for the appropriate pattern for your vehicle.
If your tyres show evidence of uneven wear, ask your tire dealer to check for and correct any misalignment, imbalance or other mechanical problem involved before rotation. If you don't you may be compounding the problem.
Sometimes front and rear tyres on a vehicle have different inflation pressures. After rotation, adjust individual tyre's air pressure to the amount recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for the tyre's new position.
Do not include a spare tyre designed for "Temporary Use Only" in any rotation pattern.
Caution: Some tyres cannot be rotated in a standard pattern. These tyres include uni-directional tyres and tyres with asymmetric tread designs. Also, some vehicles may have different-sized tyres mounted on the front and rear axles, and these different-sized tyres also have rotation restrictions. Check your owner's manual, or with your tyre dealer or tyre manufacturer, for the proper rotation recommendations in these cases.
Question : Tyre Inflation - Why is it important?
Answer : How often should you check your tyre's pressure?
A perfectly normal tyre, inflated with 32 pounds per square inch (psi) can lose 1 psi each month because of natural tyre permeability.
Check all four tyres at least once a month and before a long trip. (Some professional drivers are required to check tyre pressure every day!)
Always check tyre pressure when the tyres are cold. This usually means before driving more than one or two kms at less than 50kph.
Check your spare tyre pressure too. Many experts suggest keeping the spare pressure at one or two pounds higher pressure than normally used on your vehicle. (It's easier to let air out than to increase pressure in an emergency.)
The recommended pressure for your tires are those listed by your vehicle’s manufacturer.
Recommended pressure can be found:
DO NOT use the pressure stamped on the sidewall of your tyres – that’s the maximum pressure for which the tyre is designed. If you're even thinking of using a greater pressure, then you need to use a tyre designed for a pressure which exceeds the amount you wish to use.
Be wary of pressure gauges at gas stations. They are often abused and cannot be considered reliable.
Purchase a good pressure gauge and check it for accuracy with your tyre dealer.
Check your tyres cold – before you’ve driven even one km or at least three hours after the vehicle has been stopped.
Air expands when it’s heated and contracts when it’s cooled.
Even in cold weather, the air in a tyre becomes warmer and pressure increases as the tyre is driven.
High speed or highway driving can heat a tyre to the point where it is uncomfortable to touch with your bare hand.
The best time to inflate your tyres is in the morning before the day’s heat or driving heats up a tyre.
Your tyre’s valves are very important maintenance items for proper tyre pressure. Because valves are ordinarily made of rubber they can deteriorate over time. Replace them when you buy new tires. At highway speeds, a cracked or deteriorated rubber valve stem can bend from centrifugal force and permit air loss.
The valve cap is also an important item. A high-quality valve caps can help maintain the tire’s air, if the valve core fails for any reason. Valve caps also keep out moisture, which could freeze and in turn depress the valve core, causing air loss. The cap also keeps out dust and dirt particles, which could also interfere with the proper operation of the valve core and cause air loss.
back to Top ↑Question : Wheel Alignment - Issues and cures.
Answer : Correct wheel or tyre alignment is essential to good handling capability of your vehicle and plays an important role in tyre life. Misalignment and improper inflation are considered the two principal causes of premature tyre wear. Improper alignment can reduce a tyre's life by more than 70%. The effect is so great, in some extreme cases, that a new set of tyres can be completely worn out in a modest week-end trip.
Signs of incorrect tyre alignment include vibration, shimmy or a tendency for the vehicle to wander, or pull to one side when driven at highway speeds.
If you notice, when you're driving on the highway that the vehicle starts edging to one side or the other rather than maintaining a straight line when you loosen your grip on the steering wheel for just a second, you likely have an alignment defect.
Things which cause misalignment include aggressive cornering, hard braking or bumping a curb.
Alignment involves adjusting the wheels to specifications set by the vehicle manufacturer so they track in a straight line. Mechanics often talk of a front-end alignment since the front wheels are more often the ones that become misaligned.
When a vehicle that is out of alignment is driven the tyres to will wear unevenly, usually on an outer or inner edge (just one side). To avoid damaging your tires, and to make sure the alignment problem doesn't get worse, it's important to correct the situation as soon as possible.
When your mechanic does the alignment, several measurements are checked and adjusted if necessary. These include camber, caster, and toe.
Camber refers to the inward or outward tilt of the wheels. If the tops of the wheels angle in toward the vehicle, this is referred to as negative camber. If the tops angle away from the vehicle, it is a positive camber. When properly adjusted, the camber angle keeps the outside tyres flat and stable on the ground during a turn.
An incorrect camber setting will result in improper handling and tyres will wear out prematurely. If you have too much positive camber, your tyres will wear on the outside. Too much negative camber will wear them on the inside. If there is too much of a difference between the camber settings on the front wheels, the vehicle will tend to pull sharply to one side.
Caster refers to the angle of the vertical axis of the wheel in relation to the steering connection. A high caster angle will produce greater stability at high speeds, but steering may be more difficult at low speed. A lower caster angle results in easier steering, but the vehicle may wander at higher speeds.
Caster is adjusted according to factory specifications on individual vehicles to arrive at the optimum balance -- achieving stability and control at both high and low speeds.
Toe refers to the front end of the wheel just as your own toes are at the front of your feet. Toe-in is a condition in which the front ends of two wheels on the same axle are angled slightly inward so that they are closer together than the heel ends. Toe-out refers to the opposite condition -- the toes of two wheels are angled slightly outward, so that they are farther apart than the heels. Severe toe-in or toe-out causes uneven and excessive wear so that one side of the tread wears out more quickly than the other .
Toe settings affect the handling of a vehicle in turns. Toe-in introduces Understeer going into a curve and may make the vehicle feel like the back end is trying to come around to the front end. Toe-out introduces Oversteer in a curve and makes the vehicle feel like it is "diving" into the turn too sharply.
If the tyres have too much toe-in, the tread will be worn off, starting from the outside edges. If they are toed-out, the wear will start from the inside. This type of wear is called feathering and can be felt by running your fingers across the tread of the tire.
Each vehicle has factory specifications for camber, caster and toe which should be followed precisely. Improper alignment not only causes poor handling and premature tread wear, it also reduces fuel efficiency.
The alignment of your vehicle can be knocked out of adjustment from daily impacts such as potholes and railroad crossings or by more severe accidents. You might want to have your vehicle's alignment checked if:
You know you have hit something with your wheel. You see distinct wear on the shoulders of the tyres. You notice a change in the way your vehicle handles, such as pulling to one side, vibration, wandering.
back to Top ↑Question : Tyre Terminology - What does it all mean?
Answer : Sometimes tyre people use terms which seem like they're talking their own language. Here's a brief guide of some of the terms you'll most likely need if you're discussing tyres.
The outer perimeter of the tyre which many people think of as the tread is technically called the crown. The tread is actually the grooves or depressions which are visible on the crown. Sometimes this is also referred to as the "design" of the tire.
The tread has several functions to perform, mostly related to providing traction and handling characteristics for different kinds of tire applications such as racing, winter driving conditions, mud and off-road use, rainy or wet road driving, etc.
Sidewall refers to the area of the tire which is between the crown and the inner edges of the tyre where it is mounted on the rim of the wheel. The inner edge where the tyre meets a wheel is called the bead. The bead is reinforced with concentric steel wires embedded in the rubber to provide strength and prevent damage when the tyres are being installed (mounted) or removed (dismounted) from a wheel.
There are two basic types of air-filled tires: tube type and tubeless. The tubeless variety is most commonly used today on passenger cars. In this variety the tyre is mounted directly on a wheel and forms an airtight chamber which holds the air that is used to inflate the tyre.
The original tube type tyre has a sealed rubber tube with a valve which controls the entry and exit of air. This tube is placed within the hollow opening of the tyre. This kind of tyre is still widely used on wheels with spokes such as bicycles and motorcycles since it is difficult to make the wheel impermeable to air and even a small distortion of the wheel might break the seal allowing air to escape.
Tubeless tyres have an inner coating which tends to be self healing if a minor puncture occurs, whereas inner tubes used in tube type tyres, if they suffer even a pin prick, will begin to lose pressure.
While certain uses may make one or the other type of tyre more suitable, for passenger car use the tubeless variety has become almost universal because it is simpler and more reliable under they kinds of conditions which they are generally used. In certain cases, where a vehicle is going to be used in a way which is not "normal" it might be advisable to consider the alternative.
Tyres can be either bias-ply construction or radial. Radial tyres are the most commonly used today for cars. These tyres have reinforcing threads or cords which are embedded in the rubber compound which run across the width of the tyre from bead to bead and provide a degree of flexibility in the lateral movement of the tire which improves its handling characteristics.
Bias or cross-ply tyres have their reinforcing cords which run from one side to the other at an angle. Because the angles cross between the different layers of cord, a stronger, less flexible tyre results. This can be an advantage where strength in a tyre is more important than handling characteristics. For this reason automobiles tend to use radial tyres as their standard while trucks and trailers show a continued use for the bias-ply construction.
back to Top ↑